The end of 2022 brought important news to the world of wine, with the results of the technical tastings organized by the Chianti Rufina Consortium which highlighted the excellent performance of the area’s wines. The journalists of the wine critics, the editors of the 2023 Wine Guides and the commentators of the major international sector magazines were able to participate safely in these tastings, verifying the quality of the wines on site and presenting the new wines of the Terraelectae project. The results obtained confirmed the quality of the Chianti Rufina productions and raised enthusiasm among the enthusiasts of the sector.
During the tastings, critics and journalists paid particular attention to the more recent wines, such as Chianti Rufina 2020 and Chianti Rufina Riserva 2019, without however neglecting to explore the productions of 2018, especially as regards the Terraelectae, and of 2017. The new for 2021, on the other hand, is represented by whites and rosés, which have attracted the attention of experts. This opportunity has allowed the directors of the guides and journalists to have a 360-degree view of the quality of the Chianti Rufina productions and to evaluate the evolution of the wines over time.
Below we report the judgments of the 2023 Guides:
Gambero Rosso’s Guida Vini d’Italia (Guide to the Wines of Italy) still holds the title of the world’s most sold and read Italian wines guide, with editions in various languages. Its highest award, the coveted Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses), went to Frescobaldi precisely for its Terraelectae: Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Montesodi 2019. Selvapiana, too, captured the 3 glasses with its Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale 2019, a superb commemoration of this wine’s 40th anniversary. A profusion of Due Bicchieri Rossi (Red Two Glasses) awarded includes Frescobaldi with its Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano Vecchie Viti 2019, and I Veroni’s Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Quona 2019. Frascole took home the same award for Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna alla Stele 2018, as did two Marchesi Gondi Tenuta Bossi wines, Chianti Rufina Riserva Pian dei Sorbi 2019 and Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Poggio Diamante 2018. These outstanding results amply testify to the high quality levels attained by Rufina’s great reds, but the same can be said for its Vin Santo della Rufina DOC category as well, evidence being the 2 Bicchieri Rossi bestowed on I Veroni for its Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina Riserva 2011, and by Frascole with Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina 2009. Following last year’s superb award results for I Veroni’s Occhio di Pernice 2016, its 2011 Vin Santo, from white grapes, and Frascole’s 2009 are stunning reminders of the stature of this category, unfortunately taxed severely by diet fads, their hefty alcohols, and the economic crisis.
Excellent performances as well from Colognole, Castello del Trebbio, Ormae Vinae, Podere Il Balzo, Fattoria Lavacchio, Villa Travignoli, and Borgo Macereto, whose scores brought their many reviewed wines Due Bicchieri.
Daniele Cernilli, a leading figure on the Italian wine scene, publishes Guida Essenziale dei Vini d’Italia (Essential Guide to Italian Wines), and awarded to Marchesi Frescobaldi’s Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna Montesodi a full 95 points and faccino, the “little face” of Cernilli that guarantees the personally-verified truth of the results. Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva Vecchie Viti 2019 won a more-than-respectful 93 points, and Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2019 took 91. 95 and another faccino went to Frascole for its Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina 2009, and the same house took 92 for Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna alla Stele 2018. Marchesi Gondi Tenuta Bossi captured 92 points with its Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Poggio Diamante 2018, while 91 went to Selvapiana and its Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale 40 anni 2019, and 92 for Pomino Rosso Villa Petrognano 2019. The Guida Essenziale showcased new producer Ormæ Vinæ, owned by Russian businessman Alexey Kondrashov and his wife Ella Korop, who earned the coup of 95 points and a faccino for their surprising MCMXI 2019, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Ællæ 2019 IGT Toscana Cabernet Sauvignon won them 93, and Primæ IGT Toscana 2019 Sangiovese and Cabernet a 92. Expectations are high for further new Chianti Rufina DOCG producers and particularly for new Terraelectae offerings.
Slow Food’s Slow Wine guide can take advantage of partner FISAR’s dense network of taster-sommeliers. Historically, it has not assigned scores, except for a handful of awarded wines. Rather, its standard procedure is to review wine producers that meet the “slow” tenets of the movement. Thus, simply gaining a review is in itself a significant achievement. At the top of SlowWine’s evaluation system is a very select group of producers, each named as a Cantina Chiocciola (Snail Winery), meaning that they represent to the highest degree the Slow approach: they are directed by true vignerons, utilise reduced interventions in vineyard and winemaking, and respect the nature of their soils and environment. The Top Wine award can be given to a Vino Slow, a wine that is, that in addition to be exceptional expresses characteristics linked to the wine’s terroir, history, and environment, or to a Vino Quotidiano (Everyday Wine), a bottle of excellent wine costing less than 13 euros in a wine bar. Once again, the historic Selvapiana is a Cantina Chiocciola, as is the small gem Frascole, which tends some of Rufina’s highest-sited vineyards. A Top Wine is Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina Riserva 2011 from I Veroni, and Top Wine Vino Slow Frascole’s Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina 2009. Podere il Pozzo received the Top Wine Vino Quotidiano recognition for its Chianti Rufina Riserva 2018, as did Podere Il Balzo with Chianti Rufina 2019. Colognole, Fattoria Lavacchio, and Borgo Macereto won extremely good reviews.
The venerable Guida Oro Veronelli scattered a handful of stars on Rufina. 3 stelle ORO (3 Gold Stars) went to Frescobaldi and Mormoreto 2019, a true classic among the international blends in this area, while its Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Montesodi 2019 won 3 stars and 93 points, as did DOC Pomino Bianco Benefizio Riserva 2020, a wine that is the heritage of Vittorio degli Albizi’s research, who planted numerous French grape varieties which he believed were more resilient in the Alta Rufina Apennine climate. Another 3 stars and 92 capped Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano, and 91 Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano Vecchie Viti. Tenuta Bossi Marchesi Gondi walked off with a fine 94 and the GRANDE ESORDIO(Great Debut), practically 3 stelle ORO, granted to wines competing for the first time, for its Terraelectae Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Poggio Diamante 2018, 3 stars and 91 for Fiammae 2018, and 3 stars and 90 points for Chianti Rufina Riserva Pian dei Sorbi 2019. Completing the awards portfolio are Villa Travignoli’s 3 stars and 90 points for Chianti Rufina Riserva Tegolaia 2019; Fattoria Lavacchio, which earned the ESORDIO (3 stars) and 90 for Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna Casanova 2018; and Fattoria Il Capitano, with an impressive 3 stars and 90 points to its Chianti Rufina Vigneto Poggio 2019. Two star awards were abundant, too, going to Castello del Trebbio and 89 points to I Veroni for Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Quona 2019, which join its 3 stars and 92 points for Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina Occhio di Pernice 2016.
AIS, the association of Italian sommeliers, publishes its Vitae guide, edited by committees composed of its regional branches. Its highest award, 4 Viti (4 Vines) went to Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Montesodi 2019 of Frescobaldi.
The Vini Buoni d’Italia (The Fine Wines of Italy) guide of the Italian Touring Club (TCI) exclusively reviews wines made from native grape varieties, and this mean penalising many DOCs, such as Pomino, for their use of internationals, even if that use goes far back in history. Their top award is the Corona (Crown), with the Corona Oro (Gold Crown) for outstanding Italian wines, selected by open voting in the final round of tastings by a nationally-selected tasting panel, wines whose varietal fidelity makes a significant impression, are deeply expressive of the Rufina terroir, and are likely to create vivid and lasting memories. The Corona Azzurra (Blue Crown) is bestowed by tasting panels of guests at “Oggi le Corone le decido io” (Today I’m the One Deciding the Crowns) events. This year’s Corona Oro went to Chianti Rufina Riserva Pian dei Sorbi 2019 of Marchesi Gondi Tenuta Bossi, while the Corona Azzurra now belongs to Colognole and its Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Le Rogaie 2018, which also took the Golden Star, reserved for wines that received 4 stars and competed for the Corona, and particuarly enthused the tasting panel. Also receiving the Golden Star was Fattoria Selvapiana, thanks to its Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale 40 anni 2019, a wine with a great quality-price ratio, as well as Frascole for Chianti Rufina Riserva 2019, a producer that also was awarded 4 stars for its Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna alla Stele 2018. Another 4 stars went to Frescobaldi with its Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano Terraelectae Vigna Montesodi 2019 and Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano Vecchie Viti 2019, and to I Veroni with Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Quona 2019 and Chianti Rufina I Domi 2020. Marchesi Gondi Tenuta Bossi won the same number of stars for its Fiammae IGT Toscana Sangiovese 2018; Colognole for Chianti Rufina Riserva del Don 2017 and Chianti Rufina 2020; and Villa Travignoli with Chianti Rufina Riserva Tegolaia 2019 and Chianti Rufina 2020. Another Terraelectae took 4 stars, Fattoria Lavacchio’s Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigna Casanova 2017. Closing the 4-star winners was Chianti Rufina 2019 of Podere il Balzo, owned by Paolo Ponticelli, grapegrower and woodcutter, as he himself likes to say. A figure and vigneron to watch.
Finally, let’s examine the first results of tastings carried out by the principle international printed journals and online sites; these are not wine guides as such, but their evaluations are closely followed by international buyers, who are looking for wines available in their various individual markets.
Ian D’Agata’s work has been closely connected with Italy, having published two books, “Native Wine Grapes of Italy” and “Italy’s Native Wine Grapes Terroirs” and having directed the Vinitaly International Academy and published columns in the Los Angeles Times, Financial Times, and New York Times. He is currently publishing Terroir Sense Wine Review for the Anglophone markets and is quite influential in China and neighbouring countries. In December, he published “Great Italian Wines of 2022”. At the top of his rankings, we find fully 2 Rufina wines, one of which is a Terraelectae. He gave Fattoria Selvapiana 96/100 for its Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale 40 anni 2019 and Frescobaldi Nipozzano the same 96/100 for Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Montesodi 2019.
Decanter Magazine, one of the most widely-read wine magazines in the world, in its January 2023 issue, ran an article by Michael Apstein dedicated entirely to the new Terraelectae mark, entitled “Another addition to the Chianti quality pyramid: tasting Rufina’s Terraelectae wines.” In it, Apstein goes into great detail in describing the new project and reviews the ten “inaugural” wines, all Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae. He gives Fattoria Selvapiana 95 points, with its Vigneto Erchi 2018 “a classic example of muscle and refinement….its impeccable balance predicts a long life and glorious evolution.” Likewise 95 for Frescobaldi Nipozzano Vigna Montesodi 2018: “Both powerful and elegant, the suave texture of this youthful wine is captivating. It unfolds and blossom as it sits in the glass. A long and explosive finish highlights its dark fruitiness and minerality. In a word, wow!”. Tenuta Bossi receives 94 for Vigna Poggio Diamante 2018, “Burgundian in character with stunning purity and length.” Fattoria Lavacchio too receives 94 with Vigna Casanova 20218: “This suavely textured wine has an alluring smoky, savoury side,” and the same score goes to Grignano’s Vigneto Poggio Gualtieri 2018: “The flavour profile here tends toward darker cherries mixed with alluring earthy notes, imparting a lovely not-just-fruit complexity.” Travignoli receives only a point less for Vigna Colonneto 2018: “Dark mineral notes intermingle and complement black cherry-like flavours. An enlivening fresh finish amplifies this youthful wine’s elegance and stature,” and the same 93 goes to Colognole for its Vigneto Le Rogaie 2018: “The resulting wine leads with gorgeous floral nuances followed by juicy sour cherry notes on the palate… Fine, ripe tannins and bright acidity provide appropriate structure without astringency.” Castello del Trebbio is allotted 91 for its Vigneto Lastricato 2018: “This wine is fresh and floral, with juicy, sour red cherry-like nuances. An attractive angular firmness balances the bright fruitiness of this mid-weight wine,” while Frascole is evaluated at 89 for Vigna alla Stele 2018: “The fruit is reminiscent of plums rather than cherries. Very structured and youthful, its power is front and centre at this stage, while ever-present Tuscan acidity keeps it fresh.” I Veroni concludes the team with its Vigneto Quona 2018 with 88 points: “Engaging floral notes pull you in and give way to a weighty wine redolent with dark cherry-like fruitiness. Though the acidity keeps it fresh, the tannins are prominent in this youthful wine and need time to smooth out.” Apstein’s judgements are remarkably complimentary, with notably high scores, for all the wines considered, and his hopes are for a further strengthening of this project with more producers joining it in coming seasons.
In the German-speaking markets of Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, the voice of Christian Eder’s Vinum is most influential. Each year, it publishes the Top of Toskana (Top of Tuscany), selecting that region’s top wines. Leading the 2022 group with 18/20 points is Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale 2019 of Selvapiana, followed with 17.5 by Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna Montesodi 2019 of Marchesi Frescobaldi, by I Veroni’s Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Quona 2019; by Chianti Rufina Riserva Pian dei Sorbi 2019 from Marchesi Gondi Tenuta Bossi; by Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna Colonneto 2019 of Villa Travignoli; and finally by Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna Casanova 2018 of Fattoria Lavacchio. Still in the upper echelons of the rankings are Chianti Rufina Riserva Nipozzano Vecchie Viti of Frescobaldi at 17 points, as well as Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Poggio Diamante 2018 of Marchesi Gondi Tenuta Bossi, Chianti Rufina Riserva Tegolaia 2019 of Villa Travignoli, and Chianti Rufina Riserva Cedro 2017 of Fattoria Lavacchio. Winning 16.5 points were Chianti Superiore Vigneto Trebbio 2020 of Castello del Trebbio, Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigna alla Stele 2019 of Frascole, and Chianti Rufina Riserva Terraelectae Vigneto Poggio Gualtieri 2018 of Grignano Tenuta Inghirami. The high-scores conclude with 16 points won by Chianti Rufina Riserva Musica 2019 of Borgo Macereto.
With regard to the future, it bears looking seriously at the results of the 2022 growing year, which kept producers holding their breaths. A rainless winter brought a budbreak 10 days later than the norm, but subsequent high temperatures from late May on pushed vigorous growth. Spring still brought little rainfall; this helped prevent fungal attacks and kept interventions in the vineyards to a minimum. Summer was marked by exceedingly dry conditions, tempered only by the unique geological conformation of the Sieve valley. August rains restored vigour to the vines and spurred berry ripening, which occurred a few days earlier than last year. As a consequence, by early September the harvest of the early-ripening white grapes was practically complete, and picking began of the early reds, such as Merlot. Sangiovese, Rufina’s main grape, fared well, with warm days propelling ripeness. Overall, the grapes were sound and healthy, with above-average sugar levels and acidities reflecting the norm. Berry size and concentration presage 2022 reds of firm structure and significant longevity.
